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| Travellers’
Tales |
By
Kavita Chhibber |
| On the trail of bumbling
and stumbling wanderers. |
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It is said the human race does not
like to step out of its comfort zone.
That's probably what created the concept
of home. Yet crowded railway platforms,
airports and bus stations, swarm with
humanity, bulging backpacks, oversized
suitcases and worn out sneakers squeaking
travel tales. Is it wanderlust, bravado,
or just enquiring minds that want to
know what lies beyond that which does
not meet the eye?
There are those who love visiting new
places, others search for a better life
in the land of their dreams. While many
find what they seek, others learn that
the path to globetrotting may be strewn
with more than stardust.
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"The
great and recurrent question about
abroad is, is it worth getting there?"
— Attributed to Rose Macaulay. |
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| Some of
our Indian and non-Indian wanderers who
stumbled and bumbled their way through
pastures unknown, shared their sometimes
humorous, sometimes poignant memories
from their sojourns.
Subra Viswanathan is the quintessential
Tamil Brahmin boy who grew up in India,
graduated from a prestigious engineering
college and came to the United States
in 1987, as part of a herd of young IT
professionals.
"We were bound by a common goal
- make a lot of money and then make it
back! I spent the first few days trying
to figure out whether the shower curtain
stayed inside or outside the tub and proudly
did the usual desi things. I have pictures
of myself posing next to every landmark
in USA."
He also recalls a friend who confused
Heren with Hers and Damen with Men and
went into the wrong restroom at the Schipol
Airport. "And this was before gangsta,
at least Damen now could be da men,"
says Viswanathan .
Viswanathan recalls his American manager
asking him if he went to work on an elephant,
in India. "I told her my grand dad
used to, but now we had a car."
Until he got married, Viswanathan couldn't
tell the difference between lettuce and
cabbage, would always buy 110/220V equipment
even though the chance of it ever making
it to India was remote.
"I also didn't know steak was pronounced
'stake' not 'steek,' and meatless did
not include being 'fishless' and 'chicken
less,' and that Waffle House was America.
Really interesting when one is trying
to be cool."
Viswanathan says one "not so cool"
incident occurred when a colleague's cat
died and she went into mourning and cried
a lot. "A fellow FOB (fresh off the
boat) guy from our group, judging by her
reaction, thought her Dad died and sent
her condolences... Talk about embarrassment."
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| Viswanathan and his colleagues
would try to befriend every Indian they encountered.
"You know, big wide grin, me Bombay et
tu? etc, till you learn to spot the 'How the
hell did you get here? look...'" He
remembers being snubbed by graduate students
at Georgia Tech. "They thought FOB
IT professionals were such losers since
we came here to work and live, and not study
and go back. Not that any of them did, plus
we had better cars.
Of course in later years, we did try desperately
to be American, till our kids were born!
Then we spent most of our time trying desperately
to be more Indian than Gandhi."
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For someone who was used
to takingwhatever was dished out, it took
Viswanathan time to appreciate that his
boss actually considered him an equal and
that he could be rewarded for having the
courage to speak his mind.
Viswanathan says living here has changed
his perspective on life. It has given him
the financial freedom to pursue his interests,
his children opportunities he could not
have dreamt for them in India, and even
redefined religion for him. "Back home
I would have been caught up in rituals.
Some of which I didn't believe in even then.
Today I can have the freedom to look at
the meaning behind each ritual and practice
only what I believe in."
He says he has discovered that people do
not come to America and become Americanized.
He left his native land because he already
believed in the American value system: freedom,
being responsible for your own destiny,
making independent choices. "This country
clears your mind, because it teaches you
to think for yourself.'
Jagdish Sheth, maverick marketing guru
and author, had wanderlust in his blood
from birth. As a toddler, he was displaced
along with his family from Burma, lived
in various cities in India before coming
to America in the early 1960s. He recalls
arriving in New York and looking at the
humungous Sunday paper and protesting to
the newsagent, "I want only one copy."
Told that it was only one copy, he preserved
it for weeks trying to figure out its salvage
value, because in India one traded old clothes
and big bundles of newspapers for steel
utensils. He once tried to haggle down the
price of a shirt at a department store,
warning the sales clerk, "My friend
is waiting outside. I have only $3, take
it or leave it!"
Sheth recalls how he was on his own when
it came to trying to figure out the American
way of life at the University of Pittsburgh.
At a Thanksgiving dinner by a kindly host
family, he was gently prodded to eat the
stuffing inside the turkey when he mentioned
he was vegetarian.
Sheth was a financially strapped student
when he married his wife Madhu. "I
still remember the day she landed in December.
There was a 9-inch snowfall in Pittsburgh.
We were doing nothing but running around
and chasing each other in the snow. Having
lived in Kutch and Madras, she could not
believe what she saw."
His brother sent out printed wedding invitations
with the auspicious swastika symbol. "We
had no idea it was a symbol of the Nazis
and we sent the invitation out to all my
professors."
Every one chipped in to help the poor student
marry and he was given access to the famous
Hines Chapel for the wedding. But there
was a hitch. "In Hines Chapel the key
problem was how to set up the holy fire
for the wedding ceremony. They said no holy
fire permitted, there is no sprinkler system
there. We compromised. We went around the
Chapel grill instead! It was a landmark
wedding!"
Kishore Ramchandran, a computer science
professor, came as a post graduate student
to Wisconsin, with visions of hot babes
and fast cars, thanks to James Hadley Chase
novels and the sparse Hollywood movies playing
in Indian theatres in the 1970s that riveted
him back home. He discovered instead that
cows were the flavor of his mid western
town.
Ramchandran says it took time for him to
adjust to the comraderie between professors
and students. He recalls an orientation
session for teaching assistants by a professor
who was being aided by a little guy in shorts
handing out papers. "We were pretty
much ignoring him, thinking he was her son,
when she pointed to him and said, 'Let me
introduce Professor Charlie Fisher to you,'
and our jaws dropped. We are not used to
such familiarity back home."
Ramchandran also had to acclimatize himself
to American English terminology. He was
once waiting for a senior professor who
was meeting with a teaching assistant. "When
he came out, I asked him. 'Is Angie free?'
The assistant lowered his voice and said,
'She is not free, but she is relatively
inexpensive.'"
Ramchandran discovered that his lungi was
a source of great curiosity. "Once
I had my American friends sneak in on me
to see if I was in a compromising situation
only to find me fast asleep in a lungi.
The Americans were curious as anything,
'Hey man what are you doing sleeping in
a skirt?'"
Ramchandran admits that before he came
to this country, he had a poor impression
of people in academe. "In India my
perception was that anyone who came to academia
did so because he could not find a better
job. Coming here and seeing the amazing
work professors do made me change my mind
and settle on teaching as a profession.
The awards have been immense." Ramchandran
feels that this country has taught his children
to be more open minded, more aware and free
to question anything and as a result he
has had to change his notions on parenting.
Even though India is changing and becoming
an economic power house in its own right,
Ramchandran still feels his children have
opportunities here they would not have in
India. "The people who come here are
top tier and so their kids too are academically
gifted and top of their class. Their level
of confidence is high and they can reinvent
themselves as often as they want. My nephew
was a nationally ranked tennis player in
India, but had to opt for academics, because
in India the concept of what is valuable
is different. Here anyone can give anything
a shot and if needs be, start all over again,
without missing a step."
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Suman Chhibber and Pushpa
Narula were both married to army generals
when they took their flight out of the
country to visit the United States for
the first of several times.
While Chhibber had been to neighboring
Afghanistan, as the wife of a military
attache, Narula had not done even that,
so an international trip was quite an
event for both of them.
What enamored them most here was the
freedom of doing as they pleased.
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| They did crazy things
like putting henna in their hair, and
for want of authentic shower caps, wrapping
grocery bags around their heads and merrily
going for a walk in their new heady contraptions.
"Do you think people will mind?"
asked Chhibber of Narula.
"Who knows we are the wives of generals?"
retorted the latter.
To while the hours in between the application
and the shampooing of henna, they proceeded
to shop for a watch at an Iranian store.
After they had been haggling in typical
Indian style over the price for more than
a few very long minutes, the Iranian guy
turned and muttered to his wife in Persian,
"These women are Indian and just
like us they will haggle and argue and
not buy a darned thing" Chhibber,
whose stint in Afghanistan had honed her
fluency in Persian, retorted in equally
fluent Persian,"If you give us this
$40 dollar watch for $13, which is really
the right price, we will buy it."
The two then proceeded to take the ferry
ride to the Statue of Liberty, but having
paid the princely sum of 25 cents for
the ride, the frugal women decided to
stretch the quarter and would at the end
of each trip follow the herd to leave
the boat, but right at the exit, would
stealthily turn around and mingle with
the incoming crowd. They beamed with pride
at their innovative skills for riding
the crest seven times in a row and the
quarter was a quarter well spent.
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| Umesh Rathie, an engineer
from India, came to the United States
over two decades ago as a consultant.
"All of us came here because we could
not find the opportunities, and projects
intellectually challenging enough in India,"
Rathie recalls. "The rising tides
raise every boat, and we too rose to the
top quickly.
Indian technocrats were greatly in demand
in the 1980s and 90s and it was exciting
times for us professionally and financially."
Rathie soon realized, however, that intellectual
skills don't automatically equip you to
understand the ways of the American world!
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| On his first day at work,
Rathie meticulously arranged his table,
got the stationary, the pencil, the pen,
and then went to the secretary and asked,
"I don't have any rubber. Where can
I get a rubber?"
The secretary looked aghast: "You
need a rubber?... in office, during office
hours?"
He responded, "Well obviously, I
need to use it during office hours sometimes."
The secretary looked at him sternly,
"Let me tell you something and don't
you forget it, never ask a lady for a
rubber and in future buy your own."
"I discovered later, what we..er..
call rubber in India is called eraser
here!"
Rathie also recalls another hilarious
incident when he accompanied his Gujarati
manager in South Carolina to McDonald's.
His colleague asked a waitress in his
heavy Gujrati-Indian accent, "I want
large fries and a large Coke" Because
of his accent, the coke sounded like something
that rhymes with sock . The woman eyeballed
him for one long, piercing moment and
said with a straight face, "Man I
don't know about you, but aah am lookin
for one ma self."
Rathie and his colleagues also discovered
the joys of driving a car on the highway
and parking in the multi deck parking
garages. In Detroit some of his friends
from Tata-Unisys, came to work on a project
and parked their car on the third floor.
When they left after work, instead of
putting the gear in reverse they pushed
the accelerator and sailed forth. The
headlines in the next day's newspapers
heralded the arrival of the "Flying
Tatas."
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| If Indians have experienced
culture shock in America, surely it is even
more dramatic for their American counterparts
seeking the Indian experience. What is their
perception of this exotic land stereotypically
associated with snake charmers, yoga, mysticism,
and of course Hare Krishna?
Angelo Stagnaro, an Italian American, grew
up in ethnically diverse Greenwich Village
in New York, and has travelled to more than
50 countries, but India stood in a class
all by itself.
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"You can read up on
India as much as you want, but nothing quite
prepares you for the actual experience of
being there."
Stagnaro first went to India in 1989 and
knew the moment he landed at Delhi airport
in 1989 that he was going to return, in
spite of a sweltering summer. "I thought
they were joking when they said it was 55
degree Celsius outside. I didn't know thermometers
could actually read the temperatures that
high without exploding. I said that is impossible,
my tea isn't served at 55 degree Celsius!"
Stagnaro says he felt an instant and close
connection with India. How close a connection
was never more evident than when Angelo
stood in line on a train station in Bombay
to buy a ticket. He felt a nudge. "One
has to come to accept this in a country
as populated as is India," says Stagnaro
. "I let it go the first time without
even bothering to turn around. The second
jostling threw me to the floor. I'm a patient
person, but being thrown to the floor in
a Bombay train station was too much for
me."
He swirled around to confront the head
of what he calls the largest cow in all
of creation. "All I could hear in my
head was the voice of my 6th grade teacher,
Ms. Tienda, repeating to me, 'The Hindus
consider the cow to be sacred.' And all
I could think of was, 'Oh, my God! They're
going to kill me! I've just touched a cow!'"
One of Stagnaro's friend, who accompanied
him on this trip, wanted the complete Indian
experience and decided to enrich it with
a lungi. "It wasn't at all that he
was interested in a parody, but he was so
entranced by Indian culture and was earning
a PhD in Religious Studies that he went
all out. Yes... that's right... he bought
a lungi."
Stagnaro says his friend was very white,
tall, hairy, gangly and uncoordinated. "The
lungi simply made him look like an idiot.
I don't know why it looks good on Indian
men. My friend looked and walked like an
exceedingly tall, lame ostrich with his
legs hopelessly entangled in brightly colored
cloth. Indians, men and women had difficulty
looking into his face during a conversation
with him. I tried to avoid standing next
to him for fear that by proximity I would
be accused of sharing his faux pas."
But the most amusing sight was of his friend
leaping for Indian buses that flatly refused
to stop. Lungis, says Stagnaro, are not
for the intractably shy and innocent-of-heart
when it comes to walking, but running in
them requires a bravery and an emotional
fortitude that very few Europeans can summon
at will.
"Call upon us to stand up for the
downtrodden, to give generously to the poor,
to fight a war where the rights of others
need to be protected... all of this is child's
play. But, lest the causal Indian has a
mean streak in him, ask not to have us run
in a crowded street while wearing a lungi."
Despite these fun misadventures, India
has given Stagnaro some if his most precious
memories, "India means a country of
amazing contrasts, between immense beauty
and dirt, immense wealth and poverty, and
yet you could not find a greater example
of humanism anywhere as you would in India."
That is the same allure for Jim Maran,
who has globe trotted for 30 years representing
Motorola. "Custom clearance was a nightmare.
If they took your computer you would never
see it again, international phone calls
cost a bundle, and yet it's the ability
of the Indian people to rise to any occasion
and excel that is fascinating. You see 5-ton
trucks carrying 20 tons of weight creaking
at the edges being driven at night without
headlights, and you are thinking boy this
country is badly in need of infrastructure.
Just then you are blown away by the outstanding
achievements in certain segments of technology
and business unparalleled anywhere in the
world."
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| Christopher Meehan, a
graduate student at New York's Columbia
University, says Nothing prepares you
for either the humidity or the poverty.
It is a country of such contradictions."
He was ecstatic when he reached Benaras.
"There was so much free music there
- the music festivals showcased the talents
of the leading artists. Of course knowing
Hindi really helped."
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Meehan recalls instances
where people talked about him in Hindi
only to be embarrassed when he would pointedly
address someone in Hindi in retaliation!
Meehan says one of his last memories of
India are walking in Benaras and suddenly
seeing a cow amble over to a small Hanuman
temple, go down on is forelegs and kneel
with its head on the entrance as if paying
homage to the lord, of being thrown from
an auto rickshaw and landing in a gutter,
of feeling the cycles of life and death
and the changing seasons so much more
intensely, and being awestruck at the
rustic beauty of the remote villages he
visited for his study of Ayurveda.
Meehan's Hindi teacher had given him
the name Kailash, when he was learning
Hindi at the University of Wisconsin,
to get into the skin of things. The teacher
continued to call him Kailash while they
were in India in his class room on Asi
Ghat. The people in that neighborhood
picked up on it. He continued to introduce
myself as Christopher, but gradually became
Kailash and really identified with the
name. "Several years after returning
home, if I heard someone call the name
Kailash I would instinctually turn my
head in response." A Punjabi family
he has befriended has rechristened him
Satyananda. Meehan who went back to India
recently says "Having been given
these names, in a way, has contributed
to broadening my sense of identity and
has helped maintain a special connection
with the experiences I had when living
in India."
If Meehan feels embraced by India, famed
American flautist Steve Gorn went through
his version of the Quit India movement
in 1995 after his passport was stolen
on a train from Bodhgaya to Calcutta.
Gorn went to the police station to report
the loss. He was greeted joyously by a
policeman with a calm yogic disposition
who told him to relax and offered him
an orange and then started taking down
the report not on an official document,
but a scrap of paper with a carbon copy.
Gorn was asked to report to the foreign
registration office in Calcutta and get
documentation to leave the country, because
his new passport had no visa.
"When I saw the address, I had this
weird feeling I had been there before
and then suddenly I remembered that in
1971 I had to go to that office twice
a week because I had been under house
arrest."
It had so happened that in 1971 when
Gorn was in Benaras he was seen in the
company of a westerner who had aroused
the Indian government's suspicions. When
Gorn went to Calcutta soon after to get
a permit to go to Darjeeling he was turned
down and asked to quit India because of
the company he didn't know he should not
have been keeping. Gorn refused to go
as he was learning the flute, from master
musician Guru Goswami, and as is legendary
of Indian bureaucracy, the paper to deport
him with its carbon copy kept going back
to the office and returning every three
months and was still doing the rounds
many moons later when he begged his famous
guru to intervene.
"As soon as they saw him the case
was dropped and that was the end of it.
Now two decades later I am back in this
office and I get led up to the chief director
and I show him the letter from the U.S.
consulate to give me the visa as I need
to leave in two days. The chief director
says it cannot be done in two days. I
said I have played Indian music for 25
years and I will come back tomorrow and
play the flute for you if you give me
the visa."
Gorn' took his flutes and finding the
director said to him, "I am going
to play for you." The director benevolently
said, "Aah we have seen your record."
Gorn's chest swelled with pride at the
recognition.
He cooed. "Oh the one I cut with
my guru?" The director said "Noooo..the
Quit India record of 1971."
"He refused to listen to music,
sent me downstairs to the clerk. I look
over the glass and there it is, still
there, this yellowing moth eaten Indian
paper, and they say India is backward?
....and I am crazy too, that I still go
back!"
"And yet, I don't think I could
play the kind of music I do otherwise."
Nancy Simms, chair of educational leadership
at Western Carolina University, went to
India on a rotary scholarship, and gave
a shopkeeper in Mumbai plenty of food
for thought when asked for crackers to
settle her stomach. "The clerk's
eyes grew huge. I didn't realize that
'crackers' in India were fire crackers."
Simms also got acquainted with India's
all embracing religious practices of come
one come all ... and that anything goes
or comes in. It was Christmas Eve 1999
and Simms was in Punchgani. She and another
visitor from Canada were taken to a midnight
Mass at the local Catholic church.
"There were no doors or windows
in the tiny church and during the ceremonies
in wandered a dog," recalls Simms.
"It looked around and silently went
to the back to lie down. A short time
after that a goat walked up the center
isle, looked around and walked out. Finally
a rooster flew to the top and decided
to crow around midnight. That night it
seemed as if the entire world was at peace
when suddenly, as the priest walked out
the door there were firecrackers everywhere.
I thought we were being attacked and dropped
to the floor and covered my head. Imagine
my embarrassment when I discovered that
was usual practice."
They say there is no place like home
but celebrating the wonders, the peculiarities,
and unique sensibilities of distant places
is what enriches the tapestry of human
life. Someone rightly said, the point
of going somewhere is not to see the most
spectacular, but to get a feel for the
fringes and hollows in which life is lived.
Each one of us needs to venture, not just
to revel or achieve in something glimpsed
in a seemingly distant universe, or seek
and conquer new horizons that beckon,
but also as Thoreau rightly said, sometimes
just "to witness our limits transgressed."
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