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January 2005
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An Indian in Paris

By Lavina Melwani

Jaya Ganga’s Vijay Singh.

Little India

Nabha, his hometown, is just 15 km away from Patiala in the Punjab. But for the last 30 years noted writer and filmmaker Vijay Singh has lived continents away in Paris, the City of Light. A contributor for major French publications like Le Monde, Le Monde Diplomatique and Liberation, he is perhaps the only journalist there who writes in English and whose work is regularly translated into French for the dailies.
Indeed, it is here - far from India - that he has written critically acclaimed books, produced documentaries and a feature film, of which the subject has often been India. His books include Whirlpool of Shadows, La Nuit Poignardee, Jaya Ganga: In Search of the River Goddess, and The River Goddess, all from major publishers like Penguin, Gallimard Jeunesse and Jonathan Cape.
The books have been translated into French and other European languages. He was awarded the Prix Villa MÈdicis hors les murs for foreign literature in 1990 and the Bourse Leonardo de Vinci in 1994. He also won awards for Man and Elephant, the love story of a mahout and an elephant, which was been shown on 100 television channels internationally.
Ever since he was a child, Singh has had a fascination for the River Ganges and it has found its way into his writings and is the spirit behind his acclaimed feature film Jaya Ganga based on his book of the same name. Observes Singh: "I thought Ganga was the ideal thread for my story - a great river, a great goddess, a great woman, she is beautiful, she's charming, she's erotic, she's erratic, she is sense and nonsense, an ideal companion for my big journey. Incidentally, the Vedas and other ancient scriptures were born on the banks of this very river. That's where Hinduism first took form."
This hauntingly beautiful film, with its rich music and lush photography, is romance, mystery, surreal fable, travelogue and an ode to the River Goddess all rolled into one, and Singh who had journeyed down the Ganges - 2,500 kilometers in a skim boat for 5 months while writing the book - repeated the journey for the film, only this time with half of India's population surrounding him!
"The audience thinks that the Benares scenes in my film have been shot so naturally and effortlessly," says Singh. "Good heavens! If only they knew there was a crowd of 3,000 around the camera and 70 armed cops controlling them. The most challenging part of the shoot was the trip to the source of the river Ganges --38 kilometers on foot, 4,000 metres up in the Himalayas, 32 porters, no roads, no tracks, landslides - I almost lost my cameraman in a landslide."
Jaya Ganga premiered at the World Film Festival in Montreal, and was also shortlisted for the Prix Franaois Chalais Award at the Cannes Film Festival in 1997. The film ran for 49 weeks in four art house theatres in Paris and was shown to enthusiastic audiences in Canada, the U.K., Europe and India. The film got stunning press, especially in the UK, where it played in 75 cities. It's played in 35 countries, been shown in several film festivals and also made a star of Singh's discovery, the striking Smriti Mishra, who has been compared to the late Smita Patel and who went on to star in Shyam Benegal's Sardari Begum. "Before intruding into the world of cinema, I had always thought that writing, as compared with cinema, was more magical, more meditative, more fulfilling for the soul. I no longer feel quite the same," says Singh.
"The difference probably is that writing is more private: everything takes place in a tiny space, in silence, in isolation. On the set, a film director is as naked as a bird: everything takes place out in the open, on the surging waters of a Ganga, on the maddening ghats of Benares, in the midst of five thousand people vying to catch a glimpse of the shoot while you are trying to film a silent tear-drop. So the meditation is the same: a writer meditates in isolation, a director does it in the midst of a clamouring crowd."

Little India

Passionate about words, ideas and cinema, Singh is not so excited about the promotional aspect of his work, and that's one reason most people in the United States have not seen Jaya Ganga at all or read the book. Recently the director was in New York for a private screening of the film and to distribute the movie in this country, as well as raise funding for his next film.
While in New York, he met with Little India and discussed his life and times in Paris. He was born in the Punjab (" I explain to my western friends that while all Sikhs are Singhs, not all Singhs are Sikh) where his father was a state surgeon. After studying History at St Stephen's College, Delhi, and Centre for Historical Studies, Jawaharlal Nehru University, New Delhi, he received a scholarship to Ecole des Hautes Etudes en Sciences Sociales, Paris, for his doctoral work.
Like the elite achievers of his generation, his thinking was intellectually formed by Jean Paul Sartre and other French thinkers. In 1976, he wrote and directed a play Waiting for Beckett by Godot, bringing together the thinkers he admired the most - Beckett, Sartre and Andre Bretton. Not knowing a word of French, he landed in Paris to do his thesis work on popular creativity in the streets and cabarets of 19th century Paris, dealing with the history of prostitution, the history of alcoholism, and history of madness.
" There are people who write poetry with words and there are those who write with silence," he observes. "So the people who write their poetry in silence were the subject of my thesis. There is a grain of madness in all of us, and in some of us it's more pronounced." Indeed, Nadja or Jaya - a half real, half imaginary woman - was the muse for his book Jaya Ganga.
In Paris, Singh's writing career took off unexpectedly. In India he had been an activist for railway and textile workers and felt somewhat vindicated by Mitterand's victory in 1981, a victory of the Left. He recalls, "At a seminar about India I felt a lot of nonsense was being spoken, so I gave a fiery political speech. I came home, partly sad, partly revolting and wrote an article on caste and class in India today and since I wasn't a journalist I wrote 38 pages!" He sent two copies out, one to Simone de Beauvoir, the editor of Les Temps Modernes and the other one to the editor in chief of Le Monde.
Amazingly, Le Monde published the article in its entirety and it became a calling card for Singh. The next day he also received a call from Liberation, Jean-Paul Sartre's paper, and the second major daily in France, and he wrote for it for the next eight years. In the years that have followed he has become a leading authority on India in Paris. Yet he is not as well known in America, England or India, perhaps because of the absence of his presence in the Anglophone world. So people often ask him 'Why Paris?"
Indeed, why Paris? For someone who is so deeply involved with India, he now lives in a country with just 3,000 Indian passport holders, including himself. Does he feel Indian or French in his skin? The answer, perhaps, is both. Explains Singh, "I do see myself as French. The first thing that I did when I landed in New York was to call Paris to get the results of the election! Yes, I do feel French, I speak the language fluently and I work with Le Monde. I go on television interviews - interacting with the movers and shakers - and I feel a part of the power structure of the country. I feel I belong there. I don't feel any sense of non-assimilation or anything. I love French men and women and I've been there for a long time and for me, it's home."
Then he adds, "Despite all that, your own language is your own language. I sometimes feel, am I going to die in a foreign language? When I went to England to present my film, the amount of love those people gave me, I feel I need to open my eyes and go back to my roots in some ways. My life is just a series of accidents and the good or bad thing is I accept them," says Singh. "Now that I've turned 50 two months ago, I'm reconsidering my choices."
In Paris, there are very few Indians though the desi face is very visible there. According to Singh, there are about 100,000 Pakistanis and about 50,000-100,000 Tamilian refugees as well as a Bangladeshi presence too. Still, Singh has never really derooted himself from India and has not had to choose between two worlds. He met his wife, an Indian who is a French expert, in Paris two days after the release of his book Jaya Ganga and interestingly, her name, Mandakini, is also a synonym for the Ganges. The couple travel to India several times a year.
He points out that he came to Paris not out of economic necessity, but for the richness of her culture and so there is no fear of assimilation. He says, "If you're not scared of interacting with different cultures then where is the problem? I once wrote an article for a magazine in which said that my Carte de Resident was not given by the police department, but by the French girls! It's by meeting them and in the act of making love that there's the greatest assimilation of a foreign culture."
Singh is once again putting aside his writing to make a film. One Dollar Curry is a social satire about immigration and a group of French financiers and producers are putting up $4 million. This amount, however, goes down if the film is not made in French. Since so many people are encouraging him to make the film in English for it to get a wider viewing, Singh was in New York to raise funds to make up the shortfall. He also met with possible American distributors and plans to shoot the film in August-September in Paris.
Asked for the secret of straddling different cultures and still keeping one's sanity, Singh says, "I don't think about what's going to happen next. I don't treat life very seriously. What keeps me going is the element of surprise - I would like to surprise the world and I would like to be surprised by life - the two of them together."










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