Sometimes in the books of Pico Iyer, one
senses a hankering for a home.
"It was in a dusty
library in Delhi University that I first read him.
I was waiting to receive my visa from the American
consulate. Those months were marked by a mental
preparation to come and study in the United
States. Once I was in this country, I would read
his words often in Time magazine in a regular
column to which I kept being drawn also by his
recognizably Indian face. I was a new immigrant
and, sadly, his writings did not feed my
nostalgia. Instead, they boldly proclaimed the
existence of a new New World in which "Filipinos
in San Francisco marry Salvadorans, and Germans in
Japan take home women from Kyoto...until more and
more of us are products of everywhere and citizens
of nowhere." I was not ready for this. I ate the
same food every day and didn't even bother to get
a driver's license because I was going to go home
after getting my degree.
What was I to make of this man who told us that
airports were now our homes? I had recently left
my home. I knew where it was, and I missed it
badly.
The yellow crumbling house, in which my parents
lived, with its familiar dankness preserved
perhaps from the time in which it was built for
the British colonial officials, was fourteen
thousand miles away. It was near a loud railway
line. Only a few miles away flowed the slow-moving
river, Ganges.
During the monsoon months, the river could keep
pace with a steam train, but now in my
imagination, the river flowed gently in the slow
distance. In my memory, far away from this world
of freeways and faxes, the world I had left behind
remained fixed in golden nostalgia. I would turn
in my bed and, facing the barren wall, see clearly
that far world as tranquil and still.
In his writing, this writer whom I had never
met, Pico Iyer, unremittingly challenged my world
and its certitudes. Even as I wrapped myself in
the question of what it meant to be Indian -- I
hadn't given much thought to this issue while I
lived in India -- here was someone who told me
that the question was increasingly obsolete in a
post-national world in which "as borders crumble
and cultures mingle, more and more of us are
becoming hyphenated."
Sometimes, in Iyer, I
sensed a hankering for a home. Once he wrote, "I
can scarcely feel severed from a home I have
scarcely known. But when the cabin attendant comes
down the aisle with disembarkation forms, what do
I fill in?" Nevertheless, what was more persistent
was the insistence on a personal history that
pitted newness against nostalgia. In an article
which I have carried around with me since 1991,
Iyer sketched the outlines of the emergent
postmodern condition: "I, perhaps, am an
increasingly typical example: entirely Indian by
blood, yet unable to speak a word of any Indian
language; a British citizen, born and educated in
England, yet never having really worked or lived
in the country of my birth; an American permanent
resident who has made his home for two-thirds of
his life in America, in part because it feels so
little like home; and a would-be resident of
Japan."
Last year, while teaching a course entitled
"Bombay-London-New York" to Yale undergraduates, I
used Iyer's writings on the new generation of
"transit loungers." Many of my students were the
carriers of the kind of cosmopolitan histories
that Iyer chronicles. They did not share my deep
nostalgia, or my urgent need to battle those in
the diaspora who turn that emotion, out of guilt
or longing, into the dogma of fundamentalism. But
each of my students was moved by -- and perhaps
identified with -- Iyer's lament that the
perpetual travelers, whom he calls "the privileged
homeless," feel "neither the pain of separation
nor the exultation of wonder." These are those
lost souls who "go down to the baggage carousel
and watch our lives circling, circling, circling,
waiting to be claimed."
Earlier this year, Iyer's latest book, The
Global Soul: Jet Lag, Shopping Malls, and the
Search for Home, was published. I read that he was
now living most of the year in rural Japan. The
man who had traveled everywhere had now made his
home in a place where he was utterly alien and
hence, perhaps, wholly at home.
Then, last week, while waiting for the elevator
in my office building in a small town in northern
Florida, I read a notice that Iyer was coming to
our town to talk about his new book. I made
arrangements to have lunch with him just before
his public appearance. At the restaurant, Iyer
immediately started quizzing me about the travels
that had overtaken my origins. When we ordered our
food, the waitress asked us, "Where are you guys
from?" Both Iyer and I started laughing. He smiled
at the waitress and said, "Well, that's the
question of the day."
"Where are you from?" It is a question that is
increasingly difficult to answer. But, I think
there is also another question that Iyer is asking
in his new book. And that is: "Where are you
going?"
This is nowhere clearer than when he writes of
a friend who had flown so many miles that he had
won "the ultimate frequent flier award -- thirty
days of unlimited flying around the globe." This
friend, Iyer writes, told him of a dream "he'd had
under jet lag which was not a 'Where am I?' dream,
which you'd expect, but a 'Who am I?' dream. I
couldn't remember who I was."
Iyer too, as he admits in his new book, has
been asking this question. He wants to know
whether he is only "a thing" made up of "jet lag,
shell shock, paradigm shift." When I saw him, he
had just spent two weeks in a Benedictine
monastery in California. The world we live in, he
told me during lunch, "quickens the hunger for
stillness, and silence." As a result, Iyer now
spends seven months in a year in Nara, Japan,
where he is "rooted and sedentary." He doesn't
even own a bicycle.
Just a few days before I met Iyer, the
newspapers had carried reports of the protests in
Washington D.C. Crowds on the streets of the
nation's capital were marching against the
globalization carried out under the aegis of the
World Bank and the IMF. Iyer's is a different kind
of protest against the fragmentation of identity
under globalization. His is a more private attempt
to narrate the dream-life of the global village.
In such attempts, I see the resilience of our
pasts. Perhaps one might better explain this as
the need to find a stable link between our days
or, at least, the selves that we manufacture anew
for ourselves, almost on a daily basis.
Sometimes, almost without our noticing it, the
past speaks stubbornly through us. At the end of
our lunch, for instance, the waitress stopped by
to ask Iyer and me if we needed anything else.
Both of us requested a cup of tea. Iyer laughed
and said. "We just answered the question." We had
revealed, in a sense, where we were coming from: a
colonial past with a taste for tea. Later in the
afternoon, when I went to hear Iyer read from his
book, I ran into someone whom I had known in high
school. We had both come to a boarding school in
New Delhi from the same backward province in
eastern India. We had not seen each other in 20
years, but here we were, greeting ourselves as
professors at a university in the United States.
What was the destiny that we had followed?
The first two years of my stay in this country
turned into the five needed for a doctoral degree;
then, the excitement of a job offer and the
interest in the work I was doing meant that more
years passed. I have had a driver's license now
for eight years. I do not eat the same food
everyday any more, though I still remain an
unskilled cook. More important, the word "home"
invokes no longer the image or memory of a single
place. Without knowing it, I have become one of
those global souls who populate Iyer's writing.
Our prophets are the likes of Salman Rushdie, whom
Iyer calls "an archetypal 'None of the Above.'"
Iyer speaks highly of the fusions that Rushdie
embodies; he notes that Rushdie "speaks for many
of the 'translated men' in the new International
Empire (as he calls them) because he soars beyond
all traditions and religions and lives in the
spaces between cultures."
This also raises a question. How come some of
the most seasoned translated men and women are
writers of Indian origin in the West? Iyer's
answer, when I asked him about it, was quick and
unequivocal: "This moment cries out for what
Indians have to give. Indian writers have one foot
in five different cultures. Multiculturalism is
their birthright."