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October 2004
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India Through Rose Tinted Glasses

By Shalini Seth

Which is the real India? The one that arrives on your doorstep in colorful supplements, or the one that carries its daily bread in those same scraps of paper?

“Say it’s only a paper moon.
Sailing over the cardboard sea —
But it wouldn’t be make-believe,
If you believed in me.”
Tennessee Williams, A Street Car Named Desire

 

Little India

When India opened its door to liberalization and business boomed no one realized that the one thing to get sold-out totally would be rose-colored glasses. If the Queen visited an Indian city now, instead of during the British raj, the Rajah wouldn’t paint the house walls pink, like that of Jaipur, but present her instead with a pair of tinted glasses instead — Raybans or Gucci rose-hued.
That is the color of India today, for those who can afford the Raybans, that is. Everywhere you look there are these new layer of people with two feet above the ground and noses up in the air. Swank cars with kids clamoring for money outside them, newspapers that have suddenly acquired what is known as the Page 3 – invisible all these years — now filled with gold and the beautiful, films that exist in a bubble world, clothes that would make you feel at home in the United States, but quite out of place in the crowded, chaotic local trains, all spell a whole new India, which, at a closer glance, does not seem quite all there. What is inducing this euphoria that proclaims that all is right with my world? That I am okay and if you are not, you are simply not there. In an age when you are not sure what gender God is, who is it in the heaven that’s making things all right?
Is it the cars with their AC cocoons – a sudden deluge of them, or is it the great Indian middle class, coming into its own with its sheer numbers, in an era when the only king is the consumer. Everything in India has come in a boom — where it rains it pours, from beauty queens to luxury travel, and where it doesn’t rain (that is most of India this year), it’s a drought.
It’s a denial of reality, psychologists say. With a government that is perpetually hung, and has to be resurrected every two years instead of the prescribed five, with appalling poverty that makes people commit suicide because there is no source of livelihood, as happened in Andhra Pradesh recently where more than 200 desperate and bankrupt farmers killed themselves. It is reality that takes a thick skin to live through each day – even in a country that has grown up on a heavy dose of fatalism and celebrates one festival each day of the year.

Little India

Celebration Time:
But there is something to celebrate. For a miniscule minority that seems to be getting richer, just the fact that one is not part of the poor is reason enough. They have all joined the party, luxury cars, ten types of cosmetics, restaurants that are opening up in every street corner, dotcoms that appear and disappear everyday. One thing of which there seems to be a surfeit is money. And it is disposable. With games that promise to make you a Crorepati in an hour, being rich is in. It’s the latest fad for some of us.

Little India

Shrines Of The New Gods
The atmosphere is charged like an ostentatious Indian wedding where it is inauspicious to talk about things that are not quite all right. The spending of money has been a well-known feel-good binge. Now it has acquired a name: shoppertainment. “Shopping is not about buying necessities anymore, it is about pampering oneself,” says psychoanalyst Anupam Sinha. And shopping combined with game plazas and food centers, instead of a chore has become an acceptable pastime.
Consider sheer numbers. In the next two years India is likely to have over 22 malls. Crossroads in Mumbai, Spencer Plaza in Chennai and Delhi’s Ansals are the leaders of the pack. Predictions say that more than 20 developers will invest over Rs 1,000 crore to set up these sleek leisure and shopping centers.
With brands like Christian Dior, Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Armani and status-signifiers like Tiffany’s, Versace, Mont Blanc, Piaget, Nina Ricci, Daks Simpson, Aquasctum, Burberry’s, Cartier and Tiara entering the Indian market, these malls are seen as worthy shrines of the new Gods.

Little India

Here Today,
Elsewhere Tomorrow
The euphoria started with the golden boys of our age. With start-up legends in Silicon Valley like Vinod Khosla or Sabeer Bhatia, Rakesh Mathur or Ram Shriram, the popular chant was “why not me”?
Today there are more than 23,000 India-specific sites and more than 100,000 domain names registered by Indians. While the Internet boom may be going bust, people are not worried. It is a simple philosophy of making hay while the sun shines.
“It’s all about money and the sooner you realize that the better it is,” says software engineer Rahul Srivastav to his friend who is pursuing the softer option of social work. Rahul himself, thin, casually dressed, son of a government employee hardly conjures up the image of a budding millionaire, despite his red cell phone and brand new Santro. Yet, in less than a year, his personal worth could touch the magical six figures. “Stocks are the lottery of modern times, otherwise I would be working all my life for the future,” says Srivastav.
History was made by Infosys chairman N.S. Narayanamurthy who kept just 7.7 per cent equity to himself and distributed the rest to the public and employees. With Infosys giving stock options not only to the favored techies but to driver Kannan too, soon receptionists, office boys, secretaries and even workmen joined the rich league. According to a Nasscom estimate, some 10,000 infotech sector employees have been vested with 18 million shares in 151 companies that might be worth Rs 12,000 crore at current market capitalization levels.
It seems like the feel-good socialism is finally here – at least for the 10,000 odd individuals. It is their reason to celebrate

Little India
While the MNCs placed their trust in India and its buying power, the film industry discovered greener pastures overseas.
There is an unmistakable videshi influence. The India in this new cinema is all greenery and sarson ke khet (mustard fields), with a belle to match. Never mind that vast stretches of India are facing drought and death.
That is not what the misty-eyed NRIs remember when they think of home. Cinema is packaged to look like an ad film. A college looks like it is set in Riverdale of Archie comics. Remember the one in Kuch Kuch Hota Hai? Heroines are all straight out of matrimonial ads, walking advertisements for “Indianness” and the audience from a distance of seven seas is certainly lapping it up.
The NRI market is now a territory by itself. The usual price in Britain works out to about Rs 1,000 per ticket; the lower tiers cost almost Rs 250. Subhash Ghai’s Taal made it to the top 10 in Britain. Concedes Yash Chopra, producer of Mohabbatein which had maple leaves imported for its Gurukul set in an English castle. “Overseas market gets more than what one or even two Indian territories generate. Indians abroad, though they emotionally bond with Hindi films, are exposed to high-quality films and our films have to be made with them in mind.”
Our designers not only dress up some Hollywood stars at the Oscars but are also responsible for creating looks for Bollywood heroines.

A Paper World
The world has become smaller, they say, a mere global village. It is the power of information and information in itself is power. Media in this new village has acquired the status of a prophet. Post independence, India was a politically aware country. A journalist was someone who, by definition, was one of the first ones to know about the depletion of the ozone layer, and just a step away from the total revolution. Today, total revolution is sanitary napkins with wings. “It’s meow-meow journalism,” says Shobha De, the founder editor of glossies like Stardust and Celebrity and one of the hi-society columnists. Glitzy color supplements like the Hindustan Times City and Delhi Times in the capital and Bombay Times and the numerous Times Pluses in Bombay, to quote a few examples, are devoted to supplement celebrities. Now they even list the parties that one must attend in the city. Clearly, they are addressing a readership of the very faces that grace their pages. The reason: the supplements heavily boost circulation and generate advertising revenue.
No Coins For The Other Side
Is there another side to the coin? Indeed. Over 40 million youth across the country — most of them educated up to the high school level and above — have entered the new millennium with an updated version of the old problem: joblessness. In the euphoria that surrounds the so-called mainstream, unemployment is stale news. Experts say that the 40 million figure merely accounts for job seekers registered with employment exchanges till the end of 1999. The actual figures are much higher.
While some in the cities have washed their hands in the proverbial behti Ganga (running waters) of easy money, there simply isn’t enough to go around in the one billion plus country. Higher education is no longer a guarantee for a job and the stories of post-grads working as peons are still common. Educated unemployment in urban areas is estimated to top 20 million.
In Kerala, where 91 per cent of the population is literate, the rate of unemployment is the highest. For a population of a little over three crore, it has nearly 4 million unemployed educated youth.

Where It Does Not Pour
There were 2000 brands of packaged mineral water in India at last count.
But Ragi, a housewife in a village three hours away from Bombay, walks more than two miles, to fill water from the one sq.ft. muddy hole that is left of the river. She waits for the mud to settle after the others have filled water in small containers, a little at a time. Even as Bombay runs its water parks and car washes and most affluent suburbs enjoy 24 hour supply of water, nearly 12,000 villages in the state are facing acute water shortage.
After the devastation caused by the earthquake, Gujarat is facing a drought. In Andhra Pradesh, 18 out of a total of 23 districts (17,431 villages) have been declared drought-hit by the state government, affecting nearly 18,000 villages. In Rajasthan, 23,406 villages are affected.
Cyclone hit Orissa, which was battling water, now cannot find it anywhere. In the Erasama block, which was the worst hit by the cyclone, sweet water is not available even at a depth of 1,500 feet. In Madhya Pradesh, the entire Nimar and Malwa region comprising Dewas, Dhar, Jhabua, Mandsaur and Ratlam districts are under a dry spell. Jhabua, which borders Gujarat and has similar climatic conditions, is the worst hit.
Across huge stretches of India, but skirting the cities that live in a bubble, spread over 12 states — especially Gujarat, Rajasthan, Madhya Pradesh and Andhra Pradesh — close to 100 million people are caught in a continuing drought cycle. Women wake up at midnight to trek 5 km and more, to a well and wait till dawn with no guarantees of water. Almost every tap, well, dam, rivulet, pond, river, is dry. Sometimes after hours of digging there is only foul-smelling, muddy, brackish water to be found. Not fit for cattle to bathe in. But the dying can’t be choosy.
Water riots break out and some women sport cuts on their foreheads from flailing steel containers. There is no fodder for cattle, and the poor watch their only source of livelihood die. Farmers have lost their land and have turned laborers. Laborers who worked on their farms just beg. And death is constantly hovering close by. In Andhra Pradesh, as a farmer descends deeper into debt he walks into his fields with a bottle of pesticide and commits suicide.
In a country where a city suburb boasts of 20 new restaurants, all of which are doing well, starvation is a strange way to die.

A Death Wish
There are other ways of dying. One discovers that the suicide rates spiral across the country, claiming a little over 100,000 lives in 1998. According to the National Crime Records Bureau (NCRB) more and more Indians in their prime — 15 to 29 years and 30 to 44 years — are taking their lives. Unlike the West, where the suicide rate is usually higher for the elderly, seven out of 10 Indians who commit suicide today are young or middle-aged.
The reasons are varied but related — poverty, stress or inability to adjust to a society in transition.
The yawning disparity between ambition and achievements is leading a host of young and the middle-aged to the edge. Fame and money, dropped so easily in some laps are set as yardsticks, which cannot be met. Increasing casualties among the productive sections of the population affirms the thesis of socio-economic stress.
Bangalore, the first of India’s cities to boast of a pub, is a classic instance. A NIMHANS team carried out psychiatric evaluation of 2,651 cases of suicide and 1,550 of those who attempted to end their lives between 1996 and 1999 in 12 hospitals in the city. The study found that a staggering 79 per cent of them were in the prime of their lives — 52 per cent in the 15-29 years group and 27 per cent 30-44 years old. It also revealed that more women and children were ending their lives, especially among the migrant population (from rural to urban areas), their work-related stress and interpersonal troubles accentuated by a paucity of social support networks. Researchers call it cumulative effect of various problems — unemployment, economic privation, disharmony in the family, and in some cases, alcoholism too. Sociologist Gita Shah, of the Bombay based Tata Institute Of Social Sciences, attributes the rising rates of suicide among the young and the middle-aged to Bangalore’s speedy transition from a sleepy pensioner’s paradise to a bustling infotech hub.
Amitabh Seth, professor of psychology, feels aspiration levels of the young, inspired by success stories in the southern Indian infotech boomtowns like Bangalore, are peaking. “People are in a rush.”
It’s a rubber band reality in which the ends have snapped and no amount of stretching is going to make ‘em meet. But then, who cares, for:


“It is a Barnum and Bailey world.
Just as phony as it could be —-
But it wouldn’t be make believe,
If you believed in me.”
— Tennessee Williams, A Street Car Named Desire

 

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